(continued) Chapter 4: Hong Kong (2009-2012)
Some misconceptions are better off remaining so. They make for better stories.
In summer of 2009, I travelled to South Africa for the first time. It was a 5 of us, including the boyfriend and I, and the idea was to have an adventure, to see South African though a natives eye, and also for me to meet the extended in-law family. Gulp. And trust me, this is one big fat extended Indian family we are talking about.
The trip was one of the best I’ve ever had. And whilst it was an amazing holiday, I couldn’t shake off the nervousness of being alone in a foreign country, and meeting those who could possibly be my future extended in-laws. It wasn’t them, it was me. As days grew close to head to Durban, I wore a smile but deep inside twisted every piece of myself to find comfort. I’ll just pretend I like everything. Or seem excited about all their stories. I mean, how bad could it be?
So, we got to Durban, and much to my relief, they were all so lovely and welcoming. But I am an over analyser. And it’s not my thing to be the focal point of all conversations. As the questions grew, I could feel myself melting inwards - I was Indian, but why couldn’t I stomach the insane amount of spice they were used to? Why wasn’t I religious - aren’t all Indians super religious? Why did I not eat sausages for breakfast? …. I ate little, talked a lot, and wondered if I was answering things appropriately. And even though all questions were in good faith, when our friends decided to skip out for a cricket match, I was thrilled. Escape. Even though I didn’t know a thing about cricket (yes, I am not much of an Indian there as well!).
At the match, I revelled in my feeling of freedom and being away from questioning eyes, and enjoyed some well deserved beer. A tad too much i’m afraid. As we headed home, my future mum-in law insisted we ate a little before heading out for the night - Green Biryani she said. I had never heard of it, so I was curious. Plus, it would be rude to refuse. Too much beer (first) + spicy biryani (after) - not recommended. As we headed out for the evening with my boyfriends’ cousins, I couldn’t be more embarrassed of being sick multiple times. What a way to meet the cousins! So much for trying to be the fun, cool girlfriend. And while I think they all coyly knew, everyone, specially all the aunts, passed it off as a stomach bug I had picked up thanks to the excessive spicy food they’d been feeding me. I suppose no one wanted to believe this girl from India could drink. As for me, I chose not to correct them.
After we left Durban and South Africa, I decided to explore the origin of that very Green Biryani. I found out that it’s another much loved staple in the in-law household, and there are many versions of it in South Africa - differing from family to family. It has a strong similarity to the Indian Biryani, but is less laborious (one pot) and has lots of mint (hence the name) + local spices. All in all, I had to learn it.
Today I share that recipe with you. It’s comfort food in a bowl. The original is meant to be quite spicy, so feel free to tone up or down the chillies based on your taste buds. Hope you enjoy it - but please don’t eat it after too much beer! ;)
Ingredients
2 bunch mint leaves (approx 60gm)
1 bunch coriander leaves (approx 30gm)
6-8 green chilies (more if you want it even hotter!)
2 tbsp ginger garlic paste
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 tomato
1 tbsp cumin seeds
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
2 green cardamoms
1 cinnamon stick (if you don’t have these whole spices, replace with 1 heaped tbsp Indian biryani powder)
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp red chili powder
1 tbsp coriander powder
2 cups quick cooking or par boiled rice
500 gm chicken breast, cut into small pieces
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Method
Blend together the mint, coriander, green chilies and tomato with 1/2 cup water to make your ‘green paste’. Keep aside.
Wash and rinse the rice and keep aside.
Heat oil in a non-stick wok. Add all the whole dry spices - cumin seeds, cloves, cardamom, bay leaf and cardamom stick (note: if using biryani powder, just add the cumin seeds here, and add the powder with the spices later). Saute for a quick minute till they get fragrant, and then stir in the ginger garlic paste. Cook for another minute, and then add the onions along with a little salt. Sauté till slightly brown.
Now add the ‘green paste’ made earlier, along with all remaining dry spices (add biryani powder at this stage if using). Cook covered for a few minutes, and then add the chicken. Cook covered till the chicken is almost cooked through, and then stir in the rice. Mix well, and add 1 cup water.
Cover and let the rice cook for at least 15-20 minutes on low heat. Feel free to adjust the water (adding a little at a time) if the rice hasn’t cooked and the biryani looks dry.
Once the rice is tender, open cover to remove any excess liquid (if any). Turn off heat, sprinkle some fresh coriander on top and leave covered for another 10 minutes.
Fluff with a spoon, and serve hot. Goes well with a yogurt dip and poppadams!
“Make a pledge, starting today,
When people think of South Africa, they think apartheid, history and a few scattered beaches. Rarely does anyone think food. But after traversing miles of sun-bathed vineyards, conquering grueling hikes & engulfing waves, jumping off cloud-high bridges & driving down spotless roads, people get hungry for more than just adventure. Thus, knowing places that serve up delicious fare in my 'hometown-in-law' always comes handy.
