(continued) Chapter 4: Hong Kong (2009-2012)
No bunnies were hurt during the creation of this recipe. Only waistlines were expanded.
By now, you are half way through my life, and know a bit about my journey. You must have also realised that this Hong Kong chapter has little to do with local food or inspirations, and more about the adopted in-law country. In truth, I ate a ton of local food during this time, but experimented with little. Hong Kong was a mentally, professionally and personally heavy (yet lovable!) time, and I was focussed on re-creating myself after the biggest blow life had thrown me. In typical Hong Kong style, we worked late, ate out a lot, and explored the amazing hikes in and around the city. It helped me heal.
In 2011 we got married. We had - not 1, not 2, but 3 weddings. How did I survive it you ask? Well, our mantra was to worry less about the details (as the family would do that for us regardless) and more about who we surround ourselves with. We had a big fat Indian wedding, a big fat South African reception and a registration party in Hong Kong. With fewer formalities and more loved ones, they were all perfect and heaps of fun - at least for us. I told you I was the rebel in the family!
When we arrived in South Africa in March 2011 (my 2nd trip ever), I was determined to make this one a positively memorable one….and stay away from beer ;). My husbands’ cousin was taking us out for lunch the day before the reception, and he mentioned Bunny Chow. Bunny what! OMG I squealed, “I would NEVER eat a cute little bunny”. Laughter. So I learnt through my ignorance that Bunny Chow involves no bunnies, and in fact, originated as a vegetarian meal amongst the Indian community in Durban. After all the ‘shaadi ka khana (wedding cuisine) in India, I was so very happy to try something different for a change.
Back in the day, when land workers immigrated to South Africa, they needed an easy way to carry their lunch to the fields. Their wives wondered how to provide them a filling, nutritious meal that would consist of familiar Indian curry-based home food, but yet be easy to pack and eat in the open without utensils. Indians are known to be creative in times of need - ’jugaad’ as we call it - that loosely translates into ‘makeshift’. Thus came the idea to the wives club - they hollowed out big loaves of bread, and used that as a bowl to pack the curry in. When the farmers opened their lunch, not only did they not need additional bowls, but the curry soaked through the bread wonderfully and made for a delicious, satisfying lunch. Originally, this was done with vegetarian curries like beans and potatoes, but over time has been adapted to include the more of the favourites like chicken and mutton curries.
Durban definitely does Bunny Chow the best - thanks to the big Indian community. So the cousins and us headed towards a locally Indian market, made our way through the spice and fish shops, and landed up in a tiny hole in the wall that boasted the “Best Bunny in Town!”. I was skeptical at first - I mean how many eateries claim to do ‘the best’ of something worldwide! But, I was not disappointed. I ordered a chicken version and asked for it to be mild (given my experience of South African spice levels!) - it was still hot, but soooo delicious that I just couldn’t stop eating it. We laughed about having to alter my reception dress for the next day. That moment was life changing in many ways - I discovered that bread does go well with curry (something I always ridiculed the husband for!), that I could tolerate more spice in things that were too good to stop eating, and that there is yet another Indian South African foodie gem that I had to try making at home.
Several years after, I still continue to make mini versions of that Bunny Chow at home, with a variety of fillings. Our favourite veg version has been this one, with chickpeas, that I share with you today.
Also, true to its claim, that little stall in Durban’s Indian market is the best Bunny I’ve ever had… till today.
Ingredients
For the chickpeas
2 cups chickpeas, boiled
2 large plum tomatoes, finely chopped or blended to a paste
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 green chili, sliced lengthwise
2 tsp ginger garlic paste
1 medium courgette (zucchini), diced (optional)
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp cumin powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
2 tbsp coriander powder
1 tsp garam masala
1 tbsp South African Indian masala (optional). Can be replaced with 1 tsp red chili powder
6 tbsp light olive oil (or more, let’s not get skimpy here!)
Salt to taste
For the raita (yogurt dip)
1/2 cup full fat yogurt
1/4 cup sour cream (optional)
1 small carrot, grated
1 small green chili, finely chopped
Some fresh coriander, finely chopped
1/4 tsp cumin powder
Salt to taste
Others
8-10 buns or dinner rolls
Method
Make the chickpeas: Heat oil in a non-stick pan. Add green chili, cumin seeds and ginger garlic paste and cook for a few minutes till the seeds start to splutter. Add onions and sauté on medium flame till the onions turn brown. Now add the tomatoes, along with all the dry spices. Cover on medium flame and cook till tomatoes turn tender and can be crushed with the back of a spoon. If using blended tomatoes, the raw taste should disappear and oil should start to separate from the edges (around 8-10 minutes).
Stir in the chickpeas and courgette, and cover and cook on medium flame for 10-12 minutes so the chickpeas absorb the flavours and the courgette is tender. Open cover, mix well and let it simmer for a few minutes to dry any excess liquid. We want the gravy to be thick and not runny. Garnish with fresh coriander and keep aside.
(For non-veg version, replace with chicken/mutton – add instead of chickpeas and cook for a little longer)
Make the yogurt: Beat the yogurt till there are no lumps, Mix all the ingredients for the raita, and keep aside.
Put it all together: Cut the top off your bread rolls. Scoop out the centre, making sure it doesn’t become hollow at the bottom, and create a bread bowl. Add the chickpeas into the bread bowl, top with some carrot raita and serve immediately. As with most of my recipes, skip the cutlery, and simply dive in with your hands.
When people think of South Africa, they think apartheid, history and a few scattered beaches. Rarely does anyone think food. But after traversing miles of sun-bathed vineyards, conquering grueling hikes & engulfing waves, jumping off cloud-high bridges & driving down spotless roads, people get hungry for more than just adventure. Thus, knowing places that serve up delicious fare in my 'hometown-in-law' always comes handy.
